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27 May 2009 Posted
King George River/Falls & A Day at Sea/Sydney/HOME
So, let's finish this up! King George River is a stunning piece of landscape. The river is surrounded by the most enormous sandstone 'walls' for lack of a better word. They just soar up to the sky, sheer - straight up. It was so amazing to me that I simply put the camera down and took it in. I did try to capture the "honeycomb" limestone formation. The piece d'resistence at the end of the river - twin waterfalls. I just could not capture just how small you feel next to those magnificent falls. We were 'christened' by our zodiac driver, Adam driving straight under the falls. The power of the water is shocking. What a blast.
I sat in near perfect silence on the return trip down the river - the scenery just demanded you pay attention!
Our last day on the trip was a day at sea. Unfortunately a very rough day at sea! So bad that I had to leave midway through a long awaited spa treatment. Spent the entire day in bed, could not stand up. Finally about 5 PM the seas calmed down and I was able to meet my new friends for a wonderful farewell dinner.
From Orion I hopped a flight from Darwin to Sydney where I was booked at the Four Seasons for the night. The hotel is gorgeous and extremely well situation. I spent the following morning walking about town - the botanical gardens, the Sydney Museum, of course the Opera house and had a view of the Sydney Harbor bridge (which I have climbed on past trips).
Return trip Sydney-San Francisco-Washington DC-Portland again was flawless. Quite shocking really! Lucked out again at check-in with an upgrade on the long haul flight at the last minute.
This has been my most 'off the beaten' path trip to Australia and I SO enjoyed it. Orion's Australia offerings are truly unique...if you think you've done Australia, think again. you've not done Australia until you've done an expedition with Orion!
Thanks for tuning in....
Next trip is Mexico, 22 June to inspect hotels in the Mayan Riviera.
Cheers,
Peg
17 May 2009 Posted: Bigge Island
To me this was one of the most significant sites we visited. It felt like hallowed ground and a spiritual site the moment we set foot on it in the morning. Perhaps because we were told the area we were to visit was a ''right of passage meeting site as well as containing a burial site. I loved that there was no photography allowed, it was freeing to just "be". What sets Bigge apart from the other sites in the Kimberley is the unusual depictions of sailing ships and men with European features who appear to be smoking pipes and sitting in small row boats. "Contact art" as it is referred to. Contact with the outside world. Controversial, yes, there are different opinions on this but it is the first time I have seen anything that even remotely resembled "people" ...including clothes, a mouth (all other art shows eyes and a nose, no mouths) and very significantly a boat!
I also felt privileged to be able to see a "mens" place of ceremony as these areas are normally forbidden to be seen by women...as it is in reverse for a man to view where "women's business" takes place. Such a simple belief system, a strong faith in things unseen and a remarkable way of communicating what it takes to survive in these harsh conditions. Aboriginals were nomads so much of what is painted indicates what "bush tucker" or food can be found by the caves, what animals are in the area to be hunted and what spirits may be in the area.
I did take the opportunity to sit quietly in this special place to just absorb the culture and feeling that Bigge Island evokes.
After this incredible morning, as always we loaded back up in the zodiacs back to the ship for lunch. NO dessert today though as the crew had a surprise for our afternoon on a different part of Bigge Island....and what a surprise it was! A gorgeous cove with a lovely white sand beach and the most amazingly beautiful caves to wander in! Oh right...and a full on dessert buffet set up with champagne and assorted drinks. A strolling guitar player. Really, what a way to spend an afternoon.
BTW, this was not the first time we were surprised with a "treat" by Clinton and the wait staff... At the end of a very hot, long ride on the hunter river they appear with ice cream cones for everyone. As we left the Montgomery Reef they appeared on what looked like a mirage with a "sundowner" for all. And on our last outing on the King George River they again mysteriously appeared with a mimosa and croissant!
OMG! How could I forget - the crocodile!! FINALLY in a country and a region known for crocs up until this day I had seen none. I begged Adam to find me a croc and find one he did. I am hopeful that I'll be able to zoom this in for a better pix but you get the idea.
Know I said I'd be brief blogging but it's impossible with such a rich subject!
Cheers for now.
Peg
16 May 2009 Update
So, many of you know I am back in Maine at this point. I will continue to update the Australia Blog until I've documented the entire trip which is a remarkable 3 more days of adventures and a VERY rough day at sea!
A note on the photo's, I've edited some out so the Broome will not follow the commentary. Some weird issue with the size of some photos not fitting into the frame. I'll see if I can get tech support on this problem.
Today we are at raft point for a hike up to an outdoor Aboriginal art gallery. This was a straight uphill hike over rocky uneven ground. I was shocked at how difficult I found this to be, due primarily to an asthma attack but I made it to the top to see the Wandjina paintings. The Aboriginal of this region say the Wandjina are the creator beings of the Dreaming, and that they made their world and all that it contains. One of the primary paintings is the 'great fish chase'. It's a great story, if anyone is interested I'd be happy to share it. This style is in deep contrast to the Ulura style and Bradshaw style that I witnessed earlier. Actually in scrolling thru the photo's I noticed I didn't include the Bradshaw art! So, you'll see two distinct styles of communication in this segment. You will notice in addition to style differences the Raft Point art appears "newer". In fact it is! In this part of the Kimberley, there remains a direct link to the original story being told - and it can only be repainted by a direct link to the story being told. The Woolagoodja family continues the tradition from grandfather to father now to son. You may recall from the Australia Olympics Sam Woolagoodja told a story in the opening ceremonies using the 'wandjinas'.
After the morning activity we headed back to the MV Orion for lunch. Always fantastic sitting out on the deck for a meal. Don't think I mentioned it before but we were a total of 78 passengers with a crew of 77!
Next up hopping into the zodiacs heading out to raft point where yet another tidal phenomenon occurs, Montgomery Reef. As the tide changes water pours off a massive reef exposing all sorts of wildlife and creating small waterfall effects. Yet another awesome experience to observe.
Later Same Day, 14 May.
Just uploaded Broome photo's. First couple are of an outback style lighthouse - not what one would see in Maine:) These are built to withstand cyclones which come in their summer months. You'll note tin roofs in the Broome photo's also - it's a heat strategy, with good reason. It's hot, hot, hot. Even going into winter it was in the 90's with an unrelenting sun. You'll also see the stunning Cable Beach which is why many flock here for the winter. Next you'll see the graveyard to honor the early pearl divers. Conditions for them were just awful and many lost their lives. The next photo's are of the beach in town complete with mangroves...and an artist painting the scene. It's a charming town where outback meets the sea.
Enjoy...
Peg
Update 14 May 2009
A few things...
First I want to say that this blogging thing is fun and I've gotten great feedback - thanks to all, however that said it is very time consuming. I've learned that it needs to be quite brief and filled with what it seems folks want most, pictures!!
Second an update on Orion - the cabin in the slideshow is an unusual one, there are just two like this on the ship. Although it's got tons of room I didn't care for being next to the anchor and also it's got a slanted ceiling over the bed. This would not be my selection for clients. Fortunately and very graciously, Ian saw an opportunity to change my cabin in Broome to midship. A great opportunity to experience a fantastic cabin in a better location. Realize I have commented on the staff of the Orion but it bears repeating: best service, happiest crew I have ever experienced in every aspect of service. Reception, waitstaff, cabin stewards, exceptional matre'd and hotel manager as well as expedition team. Lectures on board are exceptional - the team keeps it fresh and entertaining while teaching you about the Kimberley and it's culture. There are many repeat guests on this expedition and they all raved about the consistency of Orion.
Regarding Talbot Bay, I've done the photo upload. You can REALLY see the way the Kimberley was formed by slamming into the coast of Australia. Unfortunately it's very difficult to capture the swirling waters of the tidal activity but it was very cool to experience being pushed around by the tides. And a treat, during the zodiac activity we came across a "rock" wallaby that I was able to capture. I've just put one photo in but will try adding a better one!
Cheers for now. Next a couple of Broome photo's then it's on to Montgomery Reef.
Cheers,
Peg
Filed 10 May 2009 6:30 PM
Righty-O!
So, the time flies still AND I had totally forgotten before Broome, we stopped at Talbot Bay a fascinating spot that shows perfectly how the Kimberley region collided with the land mass of Australia. This caused a great deal of folding and buckling of the sedimentary rocks along the welded boundaries thus creating some of the most stunning scenery along the Kimberley coast. Additionally it is the home of the horizontal waterfalls. The effect of the waterfalls is created by the rapid tidal fall on the ocean-side of gaps in the sandstone cliffs. Extremely interesting. Today was a zodiac day, a pretty chill way to spend the day. I'll get photo's on asap.
NOW it's on to Broome. I fell in love with this low key outback town (can they call this a city?). Anyway, it's got extensive pearling history. Much more than I could possibly write here. It's a very popular tourist spot with the Aussies. Think East Coast going to Florida in the winter...on a much smaller scale. It's also a jumping off spot for folks with boats that want to tour the Kimberley on their own. Hope when time allows to elaborate on the charm of Broome but for now, let's just say there is a lot to learn about the pearling business, the Japanese the migrated here and the effect the war had on this area of Australia.
Cheers for now...day at sea tomorrow so will catch up with my hiking adventure at Raft Point. The incredible experience of Montgomery Reef, the truly wonderful Bigge Island and today's adventure King George River.
Cheers,
Peg
Filed 6 May 2009 7:15 PM
Cheers ALL:
It's been a spectacular two days since I've last written marred only by the lack of and slowness of internet service the last 24 hours. Other than the really difficult internet situation the experience on Orion has been simply superb. The staff and expedition crew are unbelievably flexible in trying to make everyone's wishes a reality. As many of you know, trying to accommodate my vegetarian diet combined with my distinct likes and dislikes in food is not always easy. Orion makes me feel like the galley has nothing better to do then create special meals just for me!
Mitchell Falls was everything I expected and then some. Took my breath away. The only way THAT experience could have been better would have been if Hugh Jackman had been waiting for me in one of the swimming holes. We were picked up in a door-less helicopter to fly over the Mitchell Plateau. The land is actually a national park and is part of traditional lands of three groups of Aboriginal people. This area is some of the most scenic and biologically important in the state (Northern Territories). I do hope I have been able to capture it's beauty in the photo's I will be attaching.
Because our scheduled departure on the helicopter was delayed, I would have missed the zodiac trip down the Hunter River but, not with Orion....Ian, the hotel manager made certain to have a zodiac at the ready for us upon our return for a totally relaxing extremely beautiful trip down the river. In addition to admiring the beauty of the area, we were hunting crocodile but alas none to be seen on this afternoon - just fine by me! Scenery though was- at the risk of being repetitive spectacular again.
It sudden occurred to me that I had not seen any humans other than my shipmates in three days! Pretty cool really when you think of the volume of people we see daily. Of course, haven't seen a starbucks or Micky-d's either:)
From here it was on to BROOME. I'll write more later on this experience. Home of Paspaley Pearls!
Filed 4 May 2009 5:30 AM
Good Morning Mates,
I simply cannot believe how quickly the time is going! If you think an expedition cruise has no action on it you are sadly mistaken. I've hardly been still since stepping on board Saturday afternoon.
First, I want to mention something about Longitude 131 that I forgot. It's an all inclusive property meaning transfers, meals and touring are included. That said, they do offer an optional tour with the Anangu people that I took. I would not recommend it, not a good value for your dollar spent....and frankly their own guides are much better.
In the photo's you'll see a plane that dropped me off in Darwin. Not much doing in Darwin other than a fabulous museum. I give it a good 2 to 4 hours of activity. Other than boarding a ship or using it as a base to get to Arnhemland or Kakadu National park - excellent both - Darwin is not worth the journey.
Stepped on the ship at 4 PM Saturday and it's been fabulous. You'll see the accommodation - quite comfortable. We've been to Vansittart Bay, Jar Island for an afternoon excursion. Fabulous Bradshaw rock art (named after him as he "discovered" the art. He didn't do it!
Attended a fascinating Pearl Farming lecture. I now understand why they are so bloody expensive. A lot of work and years in the making.
Today we are heading for Mitchell Falls. Cannot wait for that!
Must dash...about to lose service!
Peg
Filed 1 May 2009 Evening Aussie Time
Good Day Mates!
My first attempt at blogging..a tad exhausted from the last few days of activity so bear with me!
My trip began with United Airlines successful on-time performance from portland via Washington Dulles to LA with a surprise upgrade to business class from LA to Sydney at check-in. Worth every cent of the "few" hundred dollars charged. Happy to report their layflat beds, upper deck on 747 are very comfortable although a bit narrow. Sorry to report service was pathetic. From Sydney a very easy connection to Qantas domestic terminal (donein under an hour) for my flight to Uluru (Ayers Rock). Amazingly enough I arrived on time with baggage in hand with 24.5 flying hours and a total travel time of 30.5 hours. I would not recommend this for clients, best to break up the trip on the west coast.
Call me crazy, but after arriving from the airport to my lodging at Longitude 131 (a 15 minute drive), a brief chat with Katherine about my two day itinerarary we walked down to my platform tent that has a direct view of uluru. I'll talk more about this most unsual desert retreat shortly. After a walk through of the accommodation it was back up to the Dune House to meet the other folks on my afternnon tour - as well as our tour guide Ned.
Longitude 131 is a Voyages property consisting of 15 platform luxury tents, the Dune House which is the central gathering place with a library/relaxing area and the dining area. Located in Central Australia, Northern Territory Longitude is ideally situated for touring Uluru, the world's largerest Monolith (OH but SO much more). No request is too small or difficult for this crew. Anneka, Katherine, Wes, Brendan and Geert just to name a few made my stay very special. The lodging, food service are all top notch. For me there isn't a better place in the desert to unwind.Dining under the stars is a truly initimate experience of fine dining as the sun sets on the "rock" complete with an excellent dijaredoo player and a guide to that massive star display after dark.
They have engaged a real gem of a guide in Ned. I returned to Uluru to learn more about the culture and history of this rock as it is a spiritual sacred place to the Pitjanjatjara/yankunytjajara aborinals. They refer to themselves as Anangu which means "us people". They prefer this terminology to Aboriginal. Uluru as it is referred to by the local people means gathering place. So much to tell about all I learned in two days but I'll save that for another installment!
Next up, the fun part - photo's of the trip thus far. Please keep in mind, I'm not a professional and these photo's have not been edited as yet! Update: this was much harder than I anticipated!!! I'll work on the photo's today.
If you've got any comments or questions please feel free to email me at: peg@travelxperts.com.
Futher update tomorrow evening my time!
Cheers,
Peg
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